Latest Updates

9/2017 - Added new videos

8/2017 - Added new videos

7/2017 - Added new videos and photos of stitch samples.

10/2016 - Added three new nalbinding stithces (Tabs Turning Stitches and Other Nalbinding Stitches)

6/2016 - Added link to Hanna Martikainen's Master's Thesis (About Nalbinding / Magazines, Theses, and other)

Nalbinding

In this website you can find nalbinding videos, and instructions on how to make nalbinding mittens.

"In the past years nalbinding has become a 'fashionable' hobby"


- Toini-Inkeri Kaukonen,
57 years ago (1960)

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How to make Variants


Several different ways

There are dozens of different nalbinding stitches and variants. Depending on the stitch type, gauge/tension, and yarn, the structure of the finished item may vary a lot: thin - thick - dense - lacy.

If you already know one nalbinding stitch, you can alter the sitch either by increasing or decreasing the number of thumb loops, and/or the number of loops you pick up behind the thumb, and/or the connection stitch.

An incomplete list of different nalbinding stitches (link).

 
Altering the stitch
 
Loops around thumb
  
- 1-4 loops around thumb 
- Pick up the oldest/topmost thumb loop from front to back (usually), or from back to front
- Pick up the oldest/topmost thumb loop from back to front before picking up the loop(s) behind the thumb (Turning Stitch, version II), or after picking up the loop(s) behind the thumb (Double Curl -pisto).
 
Loops behind the thumb
 
- Pick up 0-5 loops behind the thumb
- Pick up one (or more) loops behind the thumb before picking up the thumb loop (Åsle Stitch)
- You usually pick up behind the thumb first the loop on the right, then the middle one, and possibly next one(s) on the left. Direction of the needle from right to left.
- In Åsle Stitch, however, you pick up behind the thumb first the loop on the left (or middle one + the one on the left; for a thicker version of Åsle). Direction of the needle from right to left. The loop far on the right is not picked up.
- Pick up the loop(s) behind the thumb from back to front, and turn the needle tip either to left (Russian Stitch Family), or to right (Finnish Turning Stitch).

The end phase of the stitch
 
Usually, at the very end of the stitch, you insert the needle both under the thumb loop(s) and under the needle yarn (working yarn) which runs from your thumb to your needle.
 
- Under the thumb loop(s) and under the needle yarn (most common way)
- Under the thumb loop(s), but over the needle yarn *)
- Over the thumb loop(s), but under the needle yarn **)

*)  so called "plaited edge"; Parikkala style stitches, Rådmansö Stitch, etc
**) Alsike Stitch, Stutby Stitch
 
 
Connection stitch - Connecting to the previous row 

Usually the new stitch is connected to the edge of the previous row into one edge loop (F1; F = Front), or into one 'new' egde loop + one 'old' edge loop (F2).
Connection stitch
 
 - From front to back - F1, F2, F3 (F = Front)
 - From back to front - B1, B2 (B = Back)
 - Further below from front - M1, M2 (M = Mid), and insert needle into the connection stitch either from right to left, or from left to right (that will change the looks)
 - Further below from front + From front to back - F1+M1, or vertically "Bottom1+F1" (Åsle Stitch)
 - On reverse side (e.g. reverse mid-1)
 
The connection stitch is made usually at the beginning of the stitch, but in some stitches the connection happens in the middle of the stitch.


Comparison of different connection stitches, and how the affect the surface

Finnish Stitch 2+2 (link)
Russian Stitch 2+2+2 (link)